Pollock style painting on unprimed canvas?

Question

I've researched as much as I can online but now I could use your advice!

I've been learning to drip paint using Hammerite paint on plasterboard. I've now developed my own style and feel ready to go bigger. To do this, I'll need to transfer to canvas. I've read and seen that Pollock painted on unprimed canvas but he used enamel paints and Hammerite is obviously slightly different to this. Do you think I would be OK to paint on unprimed canvas using Hammerite?

Does anyone know how Pollock would stretch his canvas on the floor and if he used linen canvas?

I'm a complete newcomer to canvas so please excuse my ignorance on the issue.

Answer 1

Jackson Pollack was known to use linen canvas, spread out on the floor of his studio, and gloss enamel (synthetic resin-based paints) that would pour smoothly. He may have had another person stretch his canvases after they were dry.



Because it is enamel based, the Hammerite paint might eventually eat through your raw canvas. It might take years, but for more archival results, you might want to consider experimenting with acrylics (available in large, liquidy bottles, try Dick Blick for a good price). Or, use primed canvas: priming creates a protective barrier between the paint and the canvas. Cotton canvas will be much more economical than linen, and you can buy pre-primed or prime yourself.



If you really love the Hammerite, try to contact a resprentative of the manufacturer to inquire about the feasibility of using this product on unprimed canvas.

Answer 2

Unprimed Linen Canvas

Answer 3

No no no...do not gesso the back. The reaction of the oil with oxygen, heat and humidity are disolving the canvas itself. It is rotting from beneath the paint. Remove the painting from its stretcher. Buy a good quality bookbinder's glue. take a panel of high quality 1/4 to 1/2 inch plywood, furniture quality oak or birch, cut the panel precisely to the diminsions of the image surface, sand the panel lightly, gesso it in several layers drying then sanding lightly after each. This creates a barrier between the natural acid of the wood and the canvas. Evenly coat the gessoed surface with the bookbinders glue with a tight fiber roller or fine hair brush. Place the painting onto the panel and using a pounce of linen gently but firmly press from the center out in all direction to fix the canvas to the surface without air pockets. Glue the edges, too. If the fabric is still supple enough fold and glue it to the back of the panel. If its too brittle trim the excess canvas at the inside edge of the panel. The damage has already been done to the canvas and it will continue to deteriorate. Coating its back with gesso will not stop the rotting due to acid nor will it create a stable substrate for the canvas.Therefore the solution is to absolutely immobilize it so that expansion and contraction due to humidity and temp as well as traffic vibration and movement do not eventually shake the rotten fabric to bits from beneath the paint.

Answer 4

Pollock (when he got to the point he was doing his "drip" paintings) just spread the canvas out on the floor....you may want to spread it and weight it around the edges...Hammerite is formulated to be used on raw metal surfaces, so you may find it is somewhat harsh on raw linen or canvas, I guess you'll just have to experiment & see!



Good luck.....now go to your studio and MAKE ART!

Answer 5

be careful with an unprimed canvas, some paints will make it rot